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"Best Cycling in the French Pyrenees"
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"Best Cycling Routes of the Pyrénées" — What To Do, See And Try Introduction
The following pages feature a list of things that I recommend as part of your Pyrénées vacation. The eye icon marks the things to see, the dancers mark the things to do and the wine glass marks the best places to sample local specialties. Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port / Oloron-Ste-Marie / Arette / Argelès-Gazost / Saint-Lary-Soulan / Bagnères-de-Luchon Argelès-Gazost Strategically located at the intersection of four valleys and at the foot of six ski areas including Barèges; Val d'Azun; and Gavarnie, Argelès-Gazost is also the best base from which to ride the high mountain passes and climbs of the Tour de France: Tourmalet, Hautacam, Luz-Ardiden, Soulor and Aubisque. The town itself is charming, too, with its cozy central square surrounded by outdoor cafes, and its numerous parks, terraces, fountains and gardens. Popular since the 19th century for its natural hot springs and very mild microclimate, the town is a favorite Pyrénées destination that offers numerous quality hotels, although all may fill up early during the busy months of July and August. For more information and a detailed lodging list, view the tourist office website at:
www.argeles-gazost.com
What To See In Argelès-Gazost:
This park features most of the native Pyrénées wildlife in a natural setting, so it's a great place to learn about the animals, their tracks and their surroundings before seeking them in nature. What To Do In Argelès-Gazost:
Although less than a mile high, Pic du Pibeste offers one of the best panoramic views of the mountains of the Hautes-Pyrénées as well as the valley and towns of Lourdes and Tarbes. It takes only four or five hours to walk the round trip from the village of Ouzous, located 4.5 km (2.8 mi) from Argelès. Ask the tourist office in Argelès for a map and hiking information.
Although less than a mile high, Pic du Pibeste offers one of the best panoramic views of the mountains of the Hautes-Pyrénées as well as the valley and towns of Lourdes and Tarbes. It takes only four or five hours to walk the round trip from the village of Ouzous, located 4.5 km (2.8 mi) from Argelès. Ask the tourist office in Argelès for a map and hiking information.
You don't have to be a slot-machine fan to enjoy the
Argelès casino
Around Argelès-Gazost Bike Shops: If you are looking for high-end equipment, the best choice near Argelès is Cycles Arbes in Lourdes. The owner, an ex-pro from the Tour de France, is very knowledgeable and carries one of the largest selections of excellent bicycles and gear in the region. If you can't find what you are looking for there, try Vélo & Oxygen in Tarbes, which is also well stocked and offers different brands. For simple repairs or small parts, you may want to try friendly Cycles Oliveira in Lourdes. View the full list of bicycle shops in the regions covered in our "Best Cycling Routes of the Pyrénées" guidebook. Cycle Arbes: 51 Bis, Avenue Alexandre Marquis, Lourdes / Tel. 05 62 94 05 51 What to See & Do Around Argelès: The tourist committee of Midi-Pyrénées, France's largest region, has selected 17 "must see" sites based on the uniqueness of their landscape, architecture, cultural and/or historical importance. Five of them are found in the mountains of the Pyrénées and four of those are easily accessible from Argelès-Gazost: the Lourdes Sanctuary, Pic du Midi de Bigorre, Gavarnie and Cauterets-Pont d'Espagne. At least one of my cycling routes passes by each of these sites, but all are also well worth a visit of their own.
St-Savin is a charming traditional Pyrénées village that offers excellent views of the Argelès Valley, Viscos Pic and, on the other side, Pic Long. The Abbaye of St-Savin is one of the first Roman style churches built in the Pyrénées. First erected in the 945 by Charlemagne, it was destroyed by the Arabs then later rebuilt and fortified in the 14th century. Today it features a Romanesque tower from that era and a 16th century pipe organ. Visits are possible for a small fee. Routes 5 and 8, and Climb 4 will lead you right through the center of this village.
The village of Beaucens is set right at the foot of Hautacam. A special bird of prey show is presented every afternoon, high above the valley in the last remaining tower of an 11th century feudal castle. You'll get to see more than 45 species of birds of prey—a show not to missed!
This specialty bakery has been famous for its pastries since 1919—although they're no longer cooked over wood, the recipes still remain the same. Drop in and try their croustade, a fruit-filled pie topped by a thin layer of frosting, or the galette des Pyrénées,a thin crusty cake. Get more information at the tourist offices in Argelès or Lourdes. (Biscuiterie des Pyrénées Latapie 3 Rue du Sailhet 65400 Beaucens).
The village of Aucun, on the way from Argelès to Col du Soulor, is worth visiting for its recently renovated, 12th-century medieval church, now a French historical monument. Routes 7, 7b, 7c and 9.
Aucun also features an exhibition housed in a medieval dwelling that showcases the history, traditions and lifestyles of the people of the Val d'Azun: the hot metal furnace there is the only one of its kind in France. Ask in the village about hours of operation.
This artisan cheesemaker is open year round by appointment and offers a great opportunity to sample local cheeses right on your way to Col du Soulor: Routes 7 and 8 and Climb 4 all go through the village of Arrens-Marsous. (La Maison du Val d'Azun 65400 Arrens-Marsous. Tél. 33 (0)5 62 97 49 49).
Lourdes This town of only 17,000 inhabitants is internationally famous for its complex of religious buildings and sacred sites, called the Sanctuary of Lourdes. It is the largest Catholic pilgrimage destination in France and arguably the most popular Catholic sacred site in the world, getting more than 5 million pilgrims and tourists each year.
Set on a tiny hill right in the center of the city, this 11th- century castle and its 15th-century tower host a museum that will give you unusual insight into the history, culture and life of the valley: it includes medieval costumes, ceramics and tools, and even has examples of feudal "cuisine".
The Sanctuary comprises 22 separate places of worship. Among the most famous are the Grotto of Massabielle, where Bernadette had her vision, the Basilica of the Rosary and the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception. Find out more about Lourdes.
This magnificent cave has five different levels and parts of its tour are done by boat and train. It's a great way to spend a day with the family, particularly if it's pouring rain outside!
Cauterets The colorful and lively ski town of Cauterets offers a wide variety of restaurants and cafes as well as some robust and flavorful culinary specialties. This village is also the hub for visits to the awe-inspiring natural sites of Pont d'Espagne and Cirque du Lys.
A tradition for more than a century, berlingots de Cauterets began as a lozenge made with honey from the Pyrénées to soothe the throats of patients visiting local sulfurous hot springs. It has evolved into a local delicacy where various confiserie (sweet shops) compete by making their berlingots in front of tourists, mixing dozens of flavors typical in these mountains. The aromas of wild berries, wildflower honeys and herbs spread into the streets, so you can just stroll through town and let your nose lead you to the confiserie of your choice! Two of the most famous places to see berlingots made and try them are "A la Reine Margot
A visit to the Pavillon des Abeilles honeybee farm is a great opportunity to learn more about what bees do and how they do it while you sample honeys made from a variety of mountain flowers. The farm also offers activities like learning to make pain d'epice (a spicy cinnamon sweet bread) and candles. (Pavillon des Abeilles (Ballot-Flurin), 23 bis, avenue du Mamelon Vert, 65110 Cauterets).
During July and August, two ski lifts, the telecabine du Lys and the télésiège du Grand Barbat, take people over the Cambasque plateau to the top of Crête du Lys (Lys Ridge). The spectacular view from there showcases some of the grandest peaks of the Pyrénées, including Pic du Midi de Bigorre; Vignemale, France's highest Pyrénées peak, and Balaitous. You can take a mountain bike(rentals available in Cauterets) up on the lifts, then go back down on two wheels. Route 8b will take you to the bottom of the first ski lift so you can take your road bike up with you if you want to see the view from the top—or you can make a special trip and combine the view with some beautiful hikes in the region. More details are available at the Cauterets tourist office.
During July and August, two ski lifts, the telecabine du Lys and the télésiège du Grand Barbat, take people over the Cambasque plateau to the top of Crête du Lys (Lys Ridge). The spectacular view from there showcases some of the grandest peaks of the Pyrénées, including Pic du Midi de Bigorre; Vignemale, France's highest Pyrénées peak, and Balaitous. You can take a mountain bike(rentals available in Cauterets) up on the lifts, then go back down on two wheels. Route 8b will take you to the bottom of the first ski lift so you can take your road bike up with you if you want to see the view from the top—or you can make a special trip and combine the view with some beautiful hikes in the region. More details are available at the Cauterets tourist office.
Luz-Saint-Sauveur The vital town of Luz, set at the foot of famous Tourmalet and the Luz-Ardiden ski area, is also a hub to access the natural wonders of Cirque de Gavarnie and Cirque du Troumouse. Many of our cycling routes go through the town of Luz which needs more time than just a simple cycling break to enjoy it fully. Find out more about Luz at www.luz.org.
This 12th-century church was surrounded by fortified stone walls in the 14th century, giving it a feudal castle look. A must-see for fans of medieval stonework, this church is located in the town of Luz-Saint-Sauveur at the foot of Tourmalet and Luz-Ardiden. so it is easy to visit while riding Routes 5, 6, 9, 10 and 11.
This bridge, built by order of Napoléon III in 1860, is a single arch spanning the impressive gorge of the Gave de Gavarnie River. For a closer look at the river and a rush of adrenaline, you may want to try bungee jumping here—see below!
Set 90 meters (295 ft) over the Gave de Luz River, the Pont Napoléon is probably the most popular bungee jumping platform in the Pyrénées. Luz Aventure is an experienced company that organizes daily jumps in the summer. The same company also leads via ferrattas: climbs where cliffs are equipped with cables so, with the addition of simple harnesses, inexperienced people can enjoy the vertiginous heights and sensational world of accomplished rock climbers. Be sure to try at least one via ferratta on your Pyrénées visit—this opportunity for adventure is still unknown outside of Europe. Luz Aventure (65120 Luz Saint Sauveur 6, rue de Barèges. Tel. 05.62.92.33.47).
Gâteau à la broche, a Pyrenees specialty, is a sweet cake cooked for hours on a spit over an open fire. A visit to the village of
Sia
Tucked away in a tight switchback of the Tourmalet climb, 4 km (2.5 mi) past the town of Barèges, the Jardin Botanique du Tourmalet features a multitude of native mountain plants and flowers. If you stop by for a visit on your way down from Tourmalet, be sure to lock your bicycle, preferably inside your support vehicle, before disappearing into areas where you can no longer keep an eye on it.
The Palomieres Fromagerie is deservedly famous for its variety of delectable Pyrénées cheeses made with cow milk, sheep milk or both. Ask the tourist office in Bagnères-de-Bigorre how to make reservations to visit this local artisan cheesemaker. (La Fromagerie des Palomières, Quartier des Palomieres, Route de Hauban, 65200 Bagnères-de-Bigorre).
Europe's highest waterfall drops from the sheer 1700 meter (5,578 ft) walls of Cirque de Gavarnie, the magnificent natural amphitheatre called "Nature's Colosseum" by Victor Hugo. Though this UNESCO World Heritage Site is a busy tourist destination, a short walk out of the village leaves the midsummer crowds, revealing the area's natural beauty. Off-season, the region returns to its pristine and quiet natural state. Gavarnie, set at the foot of some of the most important peaks in the Pyrénées, is a great base for single or multiple day treks. One of the most popular ones begins in Port de Boucharo (Route 9 and Climb 9) and leads up to the Brèche de Roland, an impressive vertical cut about 100m (330 ft) deep and 60m (200 ft) wide said to have been hewn into the ridge by Roland's sword.
Troumouse, another huge natural amphitheater formed by high rocky cliffs just a few kilometers from Gavarnie, is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, though it lives in the fame shadow of its neighbor. The toll-gated road leading to it ensures low traffic to this area, which is also an ideal base for many treks through splendid mountain scenery. Troumouse is featured in Route 9 and Climb 10, but if you don't have time or the legs to ride it, you can always drive there.
Located in the small village of Lies in the heart of the remote and pristine Barronies, "Ets Guillaume et Lesgards" produces elaborate natural jams. Despite their name, Les Folies Fromage (the cheese delights) are created with a selection of mountain fruits from the Pyrénées whose subtle flavors perfectly enhance various types of French cheese. To whet your appetite, here are just a few of their many gourmet jams: Black cherry-licorice for sheep cheese and other large, thick, semi-dry cheeses Les Folies Fromages, Route de Banios, Lies 65200 (tel: 05-62-95-49-50). Access by vehicle only.
Pic du Midi de Bigorre (2,877 m, 9,440 ft), famous for its outstanding views of all the mountains that surround it, is itself one of the most beautiful peaks of the Pyrénées. In 2003, it was classified as a national treasure for the unique beauty of its landscape. Although the road up Pic du Midi from Tourmalet is closed to unauthorized traffic, it is paved all the way to the top, about an hour's walk. You can also reach Pic du Midi using the very fast and very high ski lift that begins in La Mongie on Tourmalet's eastern slope. That lift now lets you take your mountain bike with you, so you can enjoy the 3,000 feet of technical descents that will take you back to La Mongie. The observatory that stands atop of the peak was first established as a temporary meteorology station in 1873 and was reserved solely for the use of scientists for many years. Today it is open to the public and features an astronomy museum and special star viewing evenings. Routes 5 and 6 will take you up Tourmalet, which is right at the foot of Pic du Midi de Bigorre.
You can buy the famous Pyrénées honey in most local markets, but to really understand the origin of these gourmet honeys, made from a multitude of distinctive mountain wildflowers, make time to visit this honey maker and small eco-museum: it's a great way to learn while you try them! Route 7 passes through the town of Eaux-Bonnes, less than 2 km (1.2 mi) from Aàs. Miellerie de la Montagne Verte, 64440 Aàs (tel: 05-59-05-34-94).
If you are a history fan, you won't want to miss this feudal castle. Prominently located above the valley, with a spectacular view of the Baronnies and the higher summits of the Pyrénées, medieval war machines are just a part of the interesting content of the history and folklore museum. More information:
www.chateaudemauvezin.com
Located near Laruns in the heart of the verdant Ossau Valley, the Pardou cheesemaking facility is completely unique: it is inside an abandoned rail tunnel. The perfect temperature and humidity of the tunnel facilitate a slow aging that gives this cheese exquisite flavor. Route 7 passes right by the edge of the village of Gère-Bélesten, so it's a great stop to buy cheese for your picnic atop spectacular Col d'Aubisque. Quartier Monplaisir, Route de Laruns, 64260 Gère-Bélesten.
The vautour fauve (griffon vulture) is one of the largest birds of prey found in the mountains of Pyrénées-Atlantique and Hautes-Pyrénées and the cliff in front of the small village of Béon is a particularly good place to observe these majestic birds. A public observation center features giant screen viewing of live video feed from cameras permanently placed directly on the cliff, with commentaries by specialists. Telescopes and a small reference library are also available. Route 7 passes right by this viewing point. (La Falaise aux Vautours, 64260 Aste-Béon. Tel: 05-59-82-65-49).
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